The Ultimate Guide to AHAs: What Are They & How Do They Work?

The Ultimate Guide to AHAs: What Are They & How Do They Work?

Welcome back to The Skin Lab, your go-to source for expert skincare insights and effective solutions. 

In today's ‘screen-ready’ world, achieving radiant, healthy skin has become a top priority for many. Your skincare science secret weapon to achieveing this? AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids. Renowned for promoting smoother, clearer skin through their exfoliating powers, AHAs can have remarkable benefits for your skin. 

Let’s dive in…

Definition and types of AHAs

First things first, let's get acquainted with AHAs. Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a group of naturally occurring acids mainly found in fruits, milk, and sugarcane. The most common types of AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid. Each AHA boasts its own unique properties and benefits for the skin, making them versatile ingredients in skincare formulations worth their salt. 

We’re sure you’ve probably heard of them already. AHAs may seem like the latest buzzword in skincare, but their roots run deep. Dating back to ancient civilizations, AHAs were revered for their skin-enhancing properties. Cleopatra herself was said to have bathed in sour milk, rich in lactic acid, to maintain her legendary beauty. Fast forward to today, and AHAs have become staples in skincare routines worldwide, thanks to their ability to exfoliate, brighten, and rejuvenate the skin. Crucial for maintaining a youthful complexion. 

Understanding AHA benefits

How AHAs Exfoliate the Skin

At the heart of AHAs' effectiveness lies their ability to exfoliate the skin, offering a gentle yet potent solution for sloughing away dull, dead skin cells. Upon application, AHAs penetrate the skin's surface, where they work to accelerate the natural process of Desquamation - shedding dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Essentially just like how leaves fall off trees in autumn, our skin sheds dead cells to make way for new ones underneath.

Now, when we talk about AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), they're like the gentle helpers that speed up this shedding process. They work by loosening the bonds that hold those dead skin cells together, making it easier for them to come off. This process of shedding is crucial for keeping your skin looking fresh and healthy. When those dead cells hang around too long, they can make your skin look dull and clog up your pores, leading to issues like acne. So, by encouraging desquamation, AHAs help reveal the smoother, brighter skin hiding underneath, giving you that radiant glow you're after!

Promotion of Cell Turnover

In addition to exfoliation and getting rid of the dead skin cells on the surface, AHAs stimulate cell turnover of those fresh cells they uncover, a fundamental process in skin renewal and regeneration. By accelerating the rate at which new skin cells replace old ones, AHAs promote a more youthful, vibrant appearance. This enhanced turnover not only helps to diminish the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars but also fosters a smoother, more even skin texture by fading dark spots, hyperpigmentation and other forms of skin discoloration. 

With consistent use, AHAs can effectively address the visible signs of sun damage, leaving behind a clearer, more radiant complexion.

How to use AHAs safely and effectively. 


Using AHAs safely and effectively requires understanding their properties and incorporating them into your skincare routine with care. Firstly, consider the frequency and application methods you’re using. 

Our advice would be to begin by using AHAs 2-3 times a week to allow your skin to adjust. You can then gradually increase the frequency if your skin tolerates it well. Similarly if you notice irritation you can drop down that frequency to once a week and then look to increase when it subsides. When it comes to application, AHAs should be applied in the evening after cleansing and usage should always be combined with wearing a broad spectrum SPF daily as AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Check out our previous post all about the importance of double cleansing - here! 

Secondly, be aware of potential side effects and take necessary precautions. Some people may experience mild irritation, redness, or stinging when first using AHAs. If you have sensitive or reactive skin our advice would be AHAs may well not be for you. If you do want to adopt them into your routine consider starting with a lower concentration or patch-testing the product before applying it to your entire face. When it comes to other products in your existing routine, be cautious when using AHAs alongside other active ingredients like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, as they may increase the risk of irritation. It's best to consult with a skincare professional before combining different active ingredients in your routine.

Lastly, maximise the benefits of AHAs with consistency. Stick to your regular skincare routine and be patient—results may take time to become noticeable. Maintain your skin's moisture balance by using a hydrating moisturiser after applying AHAs to prevent dryness or irritation. Pay attention to how your skin responds to AHAs and adjust your routine accordingly - remember it’s your skincare journey and no one else’s. Go at your own pace! 

Common misconceptions about AHAs.


Addressing common misconceptions about AHAs is essential for understanding their true benefits and potential effects on the skin. Let's debunk some myths and shed light on the facts surrounding AHAs.

Myth 1: AHAs are only suitable for oily or acne-prone skin.

Fact: AHAs can benefit all skin types, including dry, sensitive, and mature skin, by promoting exfoliation and improving skin texture. HOWEVER - you need to be really hot on going in gently and not overloading your skin. 

Myth 2: AHAs thin the skin.

Fact: When used correctly, AHAs can actually thicken the skin by promoting collagen production and improving skin firmness.

Another misconception is that AHAs thin the skin or make it more vulnerable to damage. While AHAs do exfoliate the outer layer of the skin, they also stimulate collagen production and promote cell turnover, which can actually result in thicker, healthier skin over time. When used correctly and in moderation, AHAs can contribute to a stronger skin barrier and improved overall skin health.

Myth 3: AHAs should only be used in winter. 

Fact: AHAs can (and should) be consistently all year round WITH protection. 

There's also a belief that AHAs should not be used in the summer or in sunny climates due to increased sun sensitivity. While it's true that AHAs can make your skin more susceptible to sunburn, this can be easily mitigated by wearing a broad spectrum sunscreen daily and avoiding prolonged sun exposure. When used alongside proper sun protection, AHAs can be safely incorporated into your skincare routine year-round.

Myth 4: AHAs will make you break out. 

Fact: With consistent use, AHAs can help improve acne-prone skin by unclogging pores and reducing inflammation.

Lastly, some worry that AHAs will cause purging or worsen acne breakouts. While it's possible to experience a temporary increase in breakouts when first using AHAs as they accelerate cell turnover and bring underlying impurities to the surface, this is not the same as purging, which typically occurs with ingredients like retinoids. 

 Introducing SkinScript+ AHA Renew Serum

Introducing the SkinScript+ AHA Renew Serum, a revitalising blend formulated to reveal fresher, younger-looking skin. Crafted with a blend of 12% Glycolic and Salicylic Acids, this serum gently exfoliates dead skin layers, increases cell turnover, and controls microbial growth. Enriched with hydrating Sodium hyaluronate and botanical extracts, it soothes the skin's barrier and reduces the appearance of pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. The AHA Renew Serum provides gentle yet effective exfoliation, supports collagen and elastin production, and offers long-lasting hydration for up to 72 hours. 

With the SkinScripts+ AHA Renew Serum, you can take your skincare routine to the next level, achieving smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin with each use. Simply apply 1-2 pumps in the evening after cleansing, gently massaging it into the face, neck, and chest. Start by using AHA Renew two nights per week and gradually increase the frequency as tolerated. For optimal results, consider pairing it with Retinol 1.0 to maximise its effectiveness.

The bottom line…

As we wrap up our exploration into everything you need to know about AHAs, it's clear that these skincare superheroes are more than just a passing trend—they're here to stay. With their proven ability to transform your skin, AHAs offer a pathway to smoother, clearer, and more radiant complexion. 

Ready to harness the power of AHAs? Shop the SkinScript+ AHA Renew Serum now and unlock the secret to radiant, healthy skin. 


Keep an eye on The Skin Lab for more skincare insights, expert tips, and exciting product launches to help you achieve your skin health goals. 


With love and simple skincare, 

SkinScript+

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