Welcome back to The Skin Lab, your trusted destination for expert skincare insights and effective skin health solutions.
Embarking on a skincare journey often feels like navigating a maze of different options, each promising radiant results. Among these choices, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) often stand out as ‘the way’ to achieve smoother, clearer skin. Whilst AHA’s role in skincare shouldn’t be lessened (it really is as good as it says), not all AHAs are created equal.
In this guide, we'll explore the importance of matching AHAs to your skin type and delve into the characteristics of different AHAs to help you make informed decisions for your skincare routine.
Let’s dive in!
Introduction to Different Types of AHAs
Choosing the AHA for your skin type can make all the difference in unlocking their skin health benefits. For the purposes of simplicity we’re looking at the three most common types: glycolic, lactic and mandelic.
Glycolic Acid
Among the six most common types of AHAs, glycolic acid is the gold standard due to its extensive research and, along with lactic acid, has the best track record of achieving impressive results across the most ages and skin types. What makes glycolic acid so special is boasting the smallest molecular size among AHAs. This enhances its ability to penetrate the uppermost layers of built-up skin to reveal fresh skin cells hiding underneath. It has a natural ability to hydrate the skin ‘teaching’ it to become better at retaining its own natural moisture.
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid, derived from milk, does everything glycolic acid does, but just at a slightly slower pace. This is because its molecule is a little bit larger, which reduces it’s ability to penetrate the skin’s outermost layer. Don’t let this put you off though, as it’s known for its gentle yet effective exfoliating properties making it a suitable option for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin. Lactic acid is prized for its hydrating and brightening effects, making it an ideal choice for those looking to achieve a radiant complexion without irritation.
While both lactic and mandelic acids offer exfoliating and brightening benefits, lactic acid is generally gentler and more hydrating, making it suitable for sensitive or dry skin, while mandelic acid is slightly stronger and more effective at treating acne and hyperpigmentation.
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid shouldn’t be overlooked as an AHA option. Its larger size—it’s the biggest AHA—means slower penetration into the skin, making it an intriguing choice for gentle exfoliation, especially for sensitive skin. Studies suggest that mandelic acid is a great option for melanated skin. It’s also especially good at fading post-acne marks, technically known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Understanding AHA Variations and Properties
Molecular Size and Penetration Depth
As we’ve briefly touched on, a big piece of the skincare puzzle comes down to the molecular size of AHAs. This plays a crucial role in determining their penetration depth and efficacy. Glycolic acid, with its small molecular size, penetrates deeply into the skin, providing intense exfoliation and stimulating cell turnover. In contrast, lactic acid and mandelic acid, with larger molecular sizes, penetrate more slowly and gently, making them suitable for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
pH Levels and Potency
When choosing the right AHA for you, their pH level also influences their potency and effectiveness. AHAs work best at a pH level between 3 and 5, where they can effectively exfoliate the skin without causing irritation. Products with a higher pH may be less effective, while those with a lower pH may be too harsh and lead to irritation.
Comparing AHAs for Different Skin Concerns
Choosing the right AHA for your skin concerns is crucial for achieving optimal results. As we’ve seen, each AHA offers unique properties and benefits tailored to specific skin types and concerns. By understanding the differences you can make an informed decision that aligns with your skincare goals, whether it's intensive exfoliation, gentle hydration, or addressing acne-prone and sensitive skin.
Glycolic Acid for Intensive Exfoliation
Glycolic acid is your go-to if you’re seeking intensive exfoliation and skin renewal. With its small molecular size, glycolic acid penetrates deeply into the skin, effectively breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and promoting their shedding. This process helps unclog pores, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin texture. Glycolic acid is ideal for those with resilient skin looking to combat stubborn skin concerns such as acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of ageing.
Lactic Acid for Gentle Exfoliation and Hydration
If you're looking for a more gentle approach to exfoliation with added hydration benefits, lactic acid is your best bet. Derived from milk, lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, allowing it to exfoliate the skin more gently. Lactic acid helps remove dead skin cells, brighten the complexion, and improve skin texture without the risk of causing irritation, making it suitable for sensitive or reactive skin types. Additionally, it’s a great option for dry skin as lactic acid has moisturising properties that help hydrate the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and supple.
Mandelic Acid for Acne-Prone and Sensitive Skin
Mandelic acid is a versatile AHA renowned for its antibacterial properties, making it highly effective for treating acne and preventing breakouts. With a larger molecular size than glycolic and lactic acids, mandelic acid penetrates the skin more slowly and gently, reducing the risk of irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types. Mandelic acid helps unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and control excess oil production, making it an excellent choice for those struggling with acne-prone or sensitive skin. Additionally, mandelic acid can improve skin texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and promote a clearer, more radiant complexion over time.
Introducing SkinScript's AHA Renew Serum
Introducing SkinScript's AHA Renew Serum, a potent blend formulated to provide gentle yet effective exfoliation. With 12% ‘gold standard’ glycolic acid, this serum penetrates deep to dissolve dead skin cells, revealing a smoother, radiant complexion. Enriched with hydrating sodium hyaluronate and botanical extracts, it replenishes moisture while soothing the skin's barrier. Designed to target various skin concerns, from fine lines to hyperpigmentation, it refines texture, improves tone, and restores a youthful glow. Suitable for all skin types except sensitive, it's particularly beneficial for normal to dry skin and acne-prone individuals. With its hydrating and microbial-controlling properties, AHA Renew Serum offers comprehensive skincare for a radiant, healthy complexion.
The bottom line…
Clearly it's evident that understanding your skin type and concerns is pivotal in harnessing the benefits of these potent skincare ingredients. Each AHA offers unique properties tailored to different skin types and conditions. By considering factors such as molecular size, penetration depth, and pH levels, you can select the ideal AHA formulation to tackle your skincare concerns effectively.
As we say in the Skin Lab : knowledge is power! With the right knowledge and products, you can embark on a skincare journey toward smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin.
With love and simple skincare,
SkinScript+